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Home Again!
Building for Modern Lifestyles and Older Homes with Integrity, Craftsmanship, and Care.
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Caring For Your Newly Remodeled Home * Always consult with the manufacture's specifications before using any cleaning products.
Marmoleum Floor Care and Maintenance Vinyl Floor Care and Maintenance Hardwood Floor Care and Maintenance Carpeted Floor Care and Maintenance Countertop Care and Maintenance Appliance Care and Maintenance Stainless Steel Care and Maintenance Wood Paneling Care and Maintenance Whirlpool Tub Care and Maintenance Glass/Window Care and Maintenance § Stone Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o Seal upon initial installation if not done by installer. o Dust or damp mop on a regular basis. o Keep metal objects away from stone. Metal can rust and stain or scratch your floors. Be sure all furniture legs have plastic or felt bottoms and that all staples, nails and screws are covered or removed. o Sweep or dust mop frequently with clean, non-treated, dry rayon mops. Dirt and grit are abrasive and scratch stone floors. Do not use vacuum cleaners. The plastic attachments and wheels will scratch the surface. o Clean floor with appropriate cleaning chemicals. Do not use vinegar, lemon juice, cleaners that contain acid or abrasive cleaners. Any cleaning product should be tested in an inconspicuous location to ensure compatibility with the material and to avoid damage. o Different types of stone require different cleaning methods and stone can react to improper chemicals and treatment causing permanent damage, check product labels to be sure the chemical is suitable for your stone type. o Never apply wax or acrylics. o The only way to remove a stain from stone is to reabsorb it out with a chemical material called a poultice. Poultices are usually powder or cloth materials mixed with a chemical and placed on top of the stain. Over time they will absorb the stain out of the stone. Poultice guidelines: § A professional is needed to determine appropriate materials and procedures. § It is important to determine the type of stain so the correct chemicals are used. § Follow directions on product label and those of a professional. § Slate Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page)
§ Tile Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o Unfinished (unglazed) tiles need to sealed upon initial installation. o Sweep or dust mop regularly, and occasionally damp mop with plain water to remove soil. o For heavier soil use a mild detergent solution, rinse well, and wipe dry for more shine. o When further treatment is needed, particularly for the grout, apply a solution of water and chlorine bleach (liquid or powdered). Let it stand for 20 minutes or so, then mop the floor, rinse thoroughly and wipe dry. o Glazed tile should be treated like porcelain enamel, because it is easy to scratch: Avoid using harsh abrasive powders which will scratch the finish. Occasional bleaching will clean grout. Aerosol bathroom cleaners are effective on tile; follow directions on container. o Tile backsplash should be treated like all other tile surfaces. Take care if the type of cleaner you use, ensuring that it isn’t too abrasive. Clean grout as noted above if necessary. o Occasionally a dark varnish-like stain may build up in a tile shower that has not been cleaned regularly. It is a build-up of body oils and soap scum. Cover the spot with full-strength liquid laundry detergent and let stand for a couple of hours. Then sponge with water. If it still doesn't all come off, leave detergent on longer and scrub with a brush. Don't use on porcelain enamel tubs or fiberglass or plastic surfaces as it may damage them. § Grout Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o Seal upon initial installation if not done by installer. o Scrub clean on a routine basis. o Dingy grout between tiles can be brightened by scrubbing with hot suds, then apply a diluted solution of chlorine bleach. Repeat procedure, keeping tile wet 5 minutes, be sure to protect surrounding areas. o Reseal depending on traffic conditions and usage as needed. § Marmoleum Floor Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o Once your floor is installed you can use the floor at once. If you wish, sweep or dry vacuum the floor but wait at least 5 days after installation before wet mopping or moving heavy furniture. This gives the adhesive time to “cure” and become more resistant to moisture, and indentation.
o Adding a floor finish at an
early stage will make cleaning easier and less frequent in the
long run. We recommend the following procedure: o When cleaning Marmoleum sweeping, dust mopping or vacuuming is likely to be the most frequent procedure. If the floor is muddy it can be cleaned with a damp mop. If soiling is tenacious use MARMOLEUM® Concentrated Floor Cleaner as previously instructed. After several such applications, you may wish to apply one or more further thin coats of MARMOLEUM® Floor Finish to restore the gloss level. Do not over apply finish to areas (such as along wall base) which are not walked on as this just causes unnecessary build-up of polish. The need to apply Finish will vary dramatically according to circumstances, from perhaps every couple of months to annually. o Adhered dirt will have to be removed with friction. A scrubbing sponge (i.e. SOS, Scotch-Brite) or nylon brush is ideal. On larger floors you can use mechanical methods. Small rotary floor machines and wet vacuum cleaners such as the Bissel system are very good at cleaning and removing the ingrained dirt. After cleaning, allow to dry completely before re-applying the MARMOLEUM® Floor Finish. If the soiling is severe, the old finish may have to be removed. To do this, follow the instructions on the bottle of MARMOLEUM® Concentrated Floor Cleaner.
o The vast majority of spills can
be cleaned off your Marmoleum satisfactorily. Any prior
applications of MARMOLEUM® Floor Finish will make it even
easier. With spills or “accidents” with pets:
o MARMOLEUM® is made from natural
raw materials. An occurrence during the manufacturing process is
that while it is maturing in the drying stoves, a yellow cast,
termed “drying room film” may appear on its surface. This film,
caused by oxidation of linseed oil, occurs intermittently and
with varying intensity. It is most noticeable on the blue and
grey shades. However, the discoloration is only TEMPORARY.
§ Vinyl Floor Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o Protect your floors by placing pads on the bottom of your furniture and sliders under your appliances, especially when moving them. o Use only non-staining mats on your vinyl floor. Do not put rubber-backed, latex-backed or coco fiber mats on your floor because they will stain and/or damage the surface. o Keep traffic light during the first 24 hours after installation so the adhesive can dry properly. If your floor has been seamed, avoid stepping on the seam sealer for 24 hours so it can dry undisturbed. Avoid scrubbing or washing your floor for at least 3 days after installation. Clean any adhesive residue with a clean, white cloth dampened with mineral spirits. o Caution: Mineral spirits are flammable. Take all precautions listed on the container. o Regularly sweep or dust mop the floor following with a damp mop and the manufacturer's recommended cleaner to remove dirt build-up. As a substitute, 2-3 capfuls of clear, non-sudsy ammonia or a gentle detergent cleaner in one gallon of water may be used. Using more than the recommended amount of cleaner may leave a dull film. § Hardwood Floor Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o Protect your hardwood floors by: placing felt pads under all furniture (use rubber or plastic cups for heavy items like pianos), using rugs or walk-off mats near doors and in very high traffic areas, keeping shoes (especially high heels) in good repair to avoid gouging or scratching the floor. o Perform routine maintenance as recommended by manufacturer, this should include sweeping and/or dust mopping to remove dirt and grit. Always perform this process before and after a major event that involves a high volume of traffic on the floor to remove dirt that will scratch the floors finish. o Use cleaning products that are suggested by the manufacturer of your flooring or products specifically designed for wood floors. Do NOT use furniture cleaners like Pledge for example, these products will leave the floor slick, creating a dangerous situation. Also do not use cleaning products intended for other types of flooring, do not use ammonia, and do not wax unless recommended by the manufacturer. Never use a wet mop on you flooring. Never wax a urethane or surface finished floor (surface finishes include: conversion varnish, moisture-cured urethane, oil-modified polyurethane and water bases urethane) this will result in the floor being dangerously slick; generally this will void your warranty and make future refinishing very difficult. § Carpeted Floor Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o The life expectancy of carpeting can be greatly extended with proper preventive maintenance including: § Using walk-off mats to capture dirt and moisture from the outdoors § Keep sidewalks, porches and other outdoor walk ways clean to prevent dirt from being tracked inside § Vacuum often, up to daily in high traffic areas. o Any spills or spots on carpet should be addressed immediately. First try removing the stain with a clean, damp, WHITE towel, blotting the spot but never rubbing. If this does not remove the stain identify your carpet fiber type, is it synthetic or natural, nylon or wool and locate an appropriate cleaner. Ask a professional if you are unsure. Test the cleaner in an inconspicuous spot like the back corner of a closet before using it on the spot. If appropriate, rinse away the cleaner, you can not rinse too much, under rinsing will leave a residue that may attract dirt in the future. Use a small spot cleaner that will extract the water if possible. Allow the carpet to dry thoroughly. o Despite preventative measures it is important to have your carpet thoroughly cleaned on a regular basis, every one to two years depending on the level of traffic. Again be sure you identify the fiber type and contact a professional to have the carpet cleaned. Some may choose to rent or buy the equipment and do it themselves, be sure that this does not void the warranty on your carpet and also be sure to follow all directions for your equipment, as well as the recommendations of the carpet manufacturer. o Go to http://www.carpet-rug.com/ for more cleaning recommendations. § Countertop Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o Immediately wipe up all spills and messes to avoid staining. Use a pH balanced cleaner and soap-less detergent for daily cleaning. Mild dishwashing liquid sometimes works well. Be sure to rinse counters thoroughly to remove any remaining cleanser. Agitate any grout joints with a soft bristled brush to loosen debris. Acidic cleaners will etch and remove the polished surface from alkaline stones like marble, travertine and stand stone and eventually erode the grout making cleaning and maintenance difficult. o DO NOT use acidic, abrasive, wax or bleach based household cleaners and sprays on either marble or granite. o Always use pot holders or trivets under hot pots, especially on surfaces like laminate or other resin based products which may melt. o Always use a cutting board or block on all surfaces including stone counter tops which may not scratch but will dull your knives. § Cabinet Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o Painted wood, metal, laminated plastic or wood-grain vinyl surfaces can be cleaned with a detergent and warm water solution. Rinse with a cloth or sponge dampened in clean water. Using a dry cloth or paper towel to wipe the surface dry prevents streaking. Most all-purpose household cleaners may also be used; read the label to be sure it can be used on that surface, and follow directions exactly. Test any cleaning method inside a door to be sure it will not harm the finish. o Natural finished wood cabinets may be cleaned with a variety of commercial products, usually sprays, made for this purpose. Read the label to be sure it can be used on the finish, test on an inconspicuous area and follow directions exactly. These have a solvent base, so read and follow carefully cautions about ventilation, and make sure there is no spark or flame or pilot light burning in the area that could cause a fire. Dispose of cloths used in a tightly sealed container, again not near a spark or flame. Be careful with overspray, it can make a floor slippery. o Baking soda and water, or vinegar and water are two quick and easy ways to clean kitchen surfaces without the risk of using chemicals, again be sure to test these methods in inconspicuous spots before cleaning other surfaces. § Appliance Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o To clean and care for electric stove top burners or grates from a gas stove gently pull them out of the stove top, and wash with warm, soapy water. Use a gentle detergent such as that used to wash dishes. Do not submerse electric elements or allow them to get wet. If there is food or burnt particles stuck to them, use baking soda as a cleanser. Use it as you would a cleansing scrub, for stubborn stains make a paste with baking soda and water and let it sit for 30 minutes, then scrub. Rinse thoroughly with clear water. To prevent buildup and burned on food, wipe burners thoroughly during your regular kitchen cleaning ritual with a damp rag. Clean the surface of the stove top and the oven face with a generic cleaner, a damp, soapy rag or a vinegar and water mixture. o To clean and care for the metal filters in your range hood simply spray with oven cleaner, let sit 15 minutes and put them through a normal wash cycle of your automatic dishwasher. For best results use soap recommended for washing dishes that are greasy. If you don’t have a dishwasher, let them soak in DISHWASHER detergent, and rinse with hot water. Allow the screens to dry before re-installing. o To clean and care for coffee makers: at least once a month run either a commercial coffee maker cleaner or a solution of half white vinegar and half water through the coffee maker to dissolve mineral scales. The heated solution may have to be run through the unit one or more times if buildup is heavy. Thoroughly rinse all parts of the unit. Run plain cold water through a cycle to remove all traces. Always consult your owner's manual for instructions specific to your model before cleaning. The glass pot, filter container and other removable components can be cleaned with your dishes, place plastic components on the top shelf to avoid melting. Cleaning your coffee maker is an important process as dried coffee oils can ruin the taste of even the best blend and if you have "hard water", minerals can build up inside your coffee maker. o To clean and care for a refrigerator: § Consult your owner’s manual for instructions on cleaning refrigerator coils and drip pans. Dusty coils have to work harder to cool down the interior and contents of the refrigerator causing it to use more energy. § Check door seals, making sure they are clean and free of debris that would keep them from closing property. § To clean you refrigerator, remove food from shelves and wipe with a mixture or either vinegar or baking soda and warm water. Dry with a towel. Even if shelving and plastic are removable, do not submerse them in hot water as this may cause them to crack. If you must wash them with hot water, remove the shelving and allow them to come to room temperature before cleaning. § If your refrigerator has an odor, put an open box of baking soda you DON’T intend to cook with inside and allow it to absorb any odors. If you don’t have an entire box to devote to the refrigerator simply place some baking soda on a plate and place it inside the refrigerator. If the odor persists it may be necessary to remove all food, clean the interior with baking soda and water and leave open and unplugged for several days or until the odor is gone. You can also place a tray of activated charcoal, cat litter, coffee or baking soda inside to neutralize the odor. § Be mindful of the contents of your refrigerator and freezer, paper acts as an insulator, causing the appliances to work harder to cool the food, replace paper with plastic wrap or foil. Keep all containers closed and sealed as moisture also causes the refrigerator to work harder. A full freezer is more efficient than one with only a few items. o To clean, care for and deodorize a microwave: § Clean the exterior while cleaning the rest of your kitchen with an all purpose cleaner or a vinegar and water mixture. Use baking soda and water to remove any residue without harming the finish first if necessary. § To thoroughly clean the inside of your microwave oven, add two tablespoons of lemon juice to a cup of water in a microwave safe bowl and bring to a boil in your microwave for approximately five minutes. Wipe out the inside with a sponge. For a quick and simple method of cleaning, wet a dishcloth and place in the center of your microwave. Turn on high and allow the cloth to heat for about 30 seconds. The steam that is created will help loosen any hardened spills and you can use the heated cloth to wipe the inside clean. Be careful, the cloth will be very hot! § If you have some difficult stains inside your microwave oven take a three cup glass microwavable container, fill with one cup water and one cup white vinegar. Microwave for five minutes un-covered. Then wipe down with warm sponge. § To freshen up and deodorize your microwave, place a bowl of water in the oven and add three or four slices of lemon. Cook on high for thirty seconds. You can also try putting a little vanilla in a bowl, place it in your microwave and turn your oven on high for one minute. Repeat if this doesn't remove the smell after one try. § Stainless Steel Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o To clean stainless steel use an all purpose cleaner or detergent and water with a soft towel. When appropriate in slinks, use a mildly abrasive cleanser like soft scrub, to remove build up. o To remove water marks from your stainless steel surfaces, simply rub it with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol. § Wall Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o If your walls are painted you must first determine the finish of paint you have. Latex or Oil based are the most common types of paint. Both are cleanable, but some, like flat or eggshell finishes are harder to clean. High gloss finishes can be cleaned with a gentle cleaner is stains are extremely bad, but most should come off with water and a soft cloth. Be sure to test the surface in an inconspicuous place, like the back wall of a closet, before cleaning the noticeable surfaces. o Some scuffs, marks or finger prints can be removed with scrub pads like the Mr. Clean magic erasers. Again these products work best on high gloss finishes. o Keep a small container of matching paint to easy touch ups. If you do need to do a touch up, check the paint color it a corner to be sure the colors still match as paint can oxidize and change colors. o Paper wall coverings are considered non-washable and require special cleaning techniques. Many wall coverings are made of washable vinyl. Some manufacturers caution against using ammonia on these products, so be sure to check the instructions or test the cleaning product you plan to use in an inconspicuous area or on a leftover piece. Sponge washable wall coverings and some vinyl coverings with a mild detergent. To find out how much elbow grease your paper can take first work on a scrap. o Lift grease stains from washable wallpaper with a paste made of cornstarch and water. Alternately, rub dry borax over the stains. To remove a grease spot from non-washable wallpaper, place a blotter over the spot and press it with a moderately hot iron. The blotter will soak up the grease. § Wood Paneling Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o Wood paneling can have a natural, stain, oil, or wax finish. Routine care requires occasional vacuuming with a brush attachment. Never use water to clean wood paneling. Many commercial oil and wax finishes are available. For the best results, follow the manufacturer's instructions. o Woodwork is painted, stained, or left natural with an oil or varnish finish. Like walls, it benefits from a regular cleaning routine. Here's how you should approach that routine: § Vacuum or dust woodwork regularly. § Keep a small container of matching paint or stain handy to touch up nicks and scratches. § Wash the doors and window frames from the bottom up. § Clean woodwork with a wood cleaner or polish. Do not use water-base cleaners on stained or natural woodwork except for light touch-ups that you buff quickly. Spray the cleaner on a cloth instead of directly on the wood. Many commercial oil and wax finishes are available. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. § Bathroom Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o The best strategy for bathroom maintenance is prevention; mount short and frequent campaigns against dirt and soap buildup, and the task will never be insurmountable. o The most basic tools you’ll need are assorted sponges, which should be color-coded: One color for the sink and bathtub, another for the toilet. Make sure that sponges meant for the bathroom aren’t used in any other room in the house. o It’s a good idea to avoid using abrasive cleaners on the sink or bathtub. Keep soap residue and mineral deposits from forming by keeping some inexpensive terry cloths around and wiping down the sink and tub after you’ve used them. If buildup does occur, tackle the problem with warm water and a mild detergent, and rinse thoroughly. Water stains respond well to a half-and-half mixture of vinegar and water, while mildew and more difficult stains may call for a mix of two parts water to one part bleach. To clean metal fittings, wipe with a damp cloth, and dry right away, or use a mild detergent if necessary. If fittings and faucets need intensive work, a product such as 7 Metal Cleaner will do the job without stripping the finish and the fittings can be treated with a product such as FaucetBrite, which leaves a protective coating over the metal. Harder-to-reach areas of the fittings can be cleaned with a toothbrush. o Flooring, wall, and shower tiles need to be wiped down frequently or mopped with a mild vinegar-and-water or bleach-and-water solution. For heavier cleaning, only use cleaners that are appropriate for the type of tiles you have: porous or nonporous. Porous tiles will need a stone soap; check the manufacturer’s instructions for suggested products. For nonporous tiles, try a bleach and water or vinegar and water solution, while using a product such as Tilex on the grout and a solution such as Top Job or Mr. Clean on nonporous floors. o Finally, accessories such as a soap dish can be soaked in hot water in the sink—before cleaning the sink itself—or carefully wiped down if your soap dish is mounted. Toothbrush cup holders can be properly cleaned in the dishwasher. § Whirlpool Tub Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o Once a month, when going about your normal bathroom cleaning, fill your tub with warm water and a half cup of bleach. Shut off the air induction and let your water jets run for a good half hour. Afterward rinse with clear water. To keep things in working order, never use bubble or foam bath products. They can leave a residue on the tub's mechanisms and cause them to malfunction. If you're into bubbles, try a low foam bath salt. § Glass/Window Care and Maintenance (Top of the Page) o Windows look best if they are cleaned on a regular basis, at least twice a year on the inside and outside. Home recipes work just as well as commercial products for washing windows, and you'll save money. But remember that window cleaners pose a threat to woodwork. Don't let them drip on the windowsill where they can harm the paint or varnish. o Wash one side of a window with horizontal strokes and the other side with vertical strokes so you can pinpoint which side of the window has a streak. o Use a squeegee on a long handle or a sponge/squeegee combination to prevent streaks on large windows. o Eliminate tiny scratches on glass by polishing the affected areas with toothpaste. o Washing windows should be done on a cloudy day, because direct sunlight dries cleaning solutions before you can polish the glass properly. o To give an extra shine to window glass, polish it with well-washed cotton T-shirts or old cloth diapers. Or rub a clean blackboard eraser over a freshly washed and dried window to give it a diamond-bright shine o Polish windows to a sparkling shine with crumpled newspaper. The paper also leaves a film that's resistant to dirt. o Wash windows from the top down to prevent drips.
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© 2002-2008 All Rights Reserved n Mike Otto Construction, Inc. 3133 Fremont Ave. S. Suite 1, Minneapolis, MN 55408 n Ph: 612-825-4568nFax: 612-825-4817 Site Designed by Futai, Inc.
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